A note on 'mandarin jackets' and what cultural appreciation actually looks like (& how to do it properly). A Chinese-Australian's perspective on fashion's latest obsession with Asian aesthetics.
Really appreciate you writing this and sharing your perspective! That being said, the word “Tang” in Tang jacket 唐裝 actually doesn’t reference the Tang Dynasty: it’s from the Qing Dynasty and the use of the word “Tang” in this context borrows from the word that references the Chinese people: 唐人
Just wrote an article on the same topic. Everyone calling the shirwel balloon or Aladdin pants like it’s not orientalist. And that’s where something becomes appropriation and not appreciation
This is great and I think you’ve explained appreciation vs appropriation so well. When the “mandarin jacket” thing first popped up this year, along with the blatant erasure, I was appalled that even high end design houses wouldn’t understand that a collar style is not a jacket style. It just shows how hollow fashion education and research has become that people charging thousands of dollars don’t even understand basic terminology or why it matters.
They do this with indian fashion too calling duppata a Scandinavian scarf and Kolhapuri chappals as Leather sandals, toe ring sandals. If they are gonna feature our culture in their labels they better need to know the real names and origins not just calling them " South asian" or "Scandinavian"....
“Western fashion gets to extract the aesthetic and own the narrative.” That’s the mechanism Said described — and it doesn’t only apply to Asian heritage. The pirate boot is the same logic: an aesthetic built on the history of those who took what they wanted, repackaged as this season’s luxury statement. A trend is never just a trend. It’s always speaking. The question is who gets to tell the story — and who just gets to wear it.
this is so beautifully written. this article deserves to be featured in every fashion magazine.
“I feel proud that Chinese aesthetics are being celebrated and frustrated that Chinese people are being erased from the celebration.” this line really stayed with me. it made me sad because it’s a pattern i see far too often in fashion. i wish there were more i could do, but our words and our voices matter. i truly hope more people continue writing about these issues so we can raise awareness and push the industry toward meaningful change.
I loved this article when I first read it and it’s even more relevant now with the recent uptake of Chinese customs surrounding Chinese New Year. I wrote a piece on this, let me know if it resonates x
Thank you, as a fashion enthusiast and as someone that has gradually become fascinated with the cultural heritage, history and the craftsmanship behind Chinese fashion, silhouettes, and textures over the ages - this article feels like a welcomed antidote to the dilution of all things mainstream, pieces like the so-called 'mandarin jackets' which become stripped of their history and cultural context to morph into 'westernised' fashion trends. With all the admiration, respect and inspiration I have drawn from these beautiful shapes, silhouettes and patterns – as you mentioned – it is equally appropriate to talk about the Orientalist trenfs that have long been anchored in the fashion industry: one whereby the treasures and riches of Chinese culture end up once again westernised and re-worked/ re-clothes with no credit, cultural appreciation or nod to the wealth of history behind the garment. Merci, from a newfound reader in France <3
Well articulated re: appreciation vs appropriation. I found the list super helpful as a non-Asian that loves the cheongsam dress and has been on the hunt for an authentic maker in China
A wonderful essay, very well written and extremely necessary. As someone from a culture that is constantly consumed by Americans and Europeans, I understand very well what you’re talking about. I truly hope people can learn from this.
Really appreciate you writing this and sharing your perspective! That being said, the word “Tang” in Tang jacket 唐裝 actually doesn’t reference the Tang Dynasty: it’s from the Qing Dynasty and the use of the word “Tang” in this context borrows from the word that references the Chinese people: 唐人
Just wrote an article on the same topic. Everyone calling the shirwel balloon or Aladdin pants like it’s not orientalist. And that’s where something becomes appropriation and not appreciation
This is great and I think you’ve explained appreciation vs appropriation so well. When the “mandarin jacket” thing first popped up this year, along with the blatant erasure, I was appalled that even high end design houses wouldn’t understand that a collar style is not a jacket style. It just shows how hollow fashion education and research has become that people charging thousands of dollars don’t even understand basic terminology or why it matters.
They do this with indian fashion too calling duppata a Scandinavian scarf and Kolhapuri chappals as Leather sandals, toe ring sandals. If they are gonna feature our culture in their labels they better need to know the real names and origins not just calling them " South asian" or "Scandinavian"....
I just read this sitting in my Shanghai Tang jacket!! So important to talk about this and so happy to learn about other cool designers!
“Western fashion gets to extract the aesthetic and own the narrative.” That’s the mechanism Said described — and it doesn’t only apply to Asian heritage. The pirate boot is the same logic: an aesthetic built on the history of those who took what they wanted, repackaged as this season’s luxury statement. A trend is never just a trend. It’s always speaking. The question is who gets to tell the story — and who just gets to wear it.
this is so beautifully written. this article deserves to be featured in every fashion magazine.
“I feel proud that Chinese aesthetics are being celebrated and frustrated that Chinese people are being erased from the celebration.” this line really stayed with me. it made me sad because it’s a pattern i see far too often in fashion. i wish there were more i could do, but our words and our voices matter. i truly hope more people continue writing about these issues so we can raise awareness and push the industry toward meaningful change.
Excellent article. ❤️
I am super curious about you take !! I’ve been thinking about this topic for some time
I loved this article when I first read it and it’s even more relevant now with the recent uptake of Chinese customs surrounding Chinese New Year. I wrote a piece on this, let me know if it resonates x
https://substack.com/@laurensaysn/note/p-179805017?r=3omlvr&utm_source=notes-share-action&utm_medium=web
Thank you, as a fashion enthusiast and as someone that has gradually become fascinated with the cultural heritage, history and the craftsmanship behind Chinese fashion, silhouettes, and textures over the ages - this article feels like a welcomed antidote to the dilution of all things mainstream, pieces like the so-called 'mandarin jackets' which become stripped of their history and cultural context to morph into 'westernised' fashion trends. With all the admiration, respect and inspiration I have drawn from these beautiful shapes, silhouettes and patterns – as you mentioned – it is equally appropriate to talk about the Orientalist trenfs that have long been anchored in the fashion industry: one whereby the treasures and riches of Chinese culture end up once again westernised and re-worked/ re-clothes with no credit, cultural appreciation or nod to the wealth of history behind the garment. Merci, from a newfound reader in France <3
Well articulated re: appreciation vs appropriation. I found the list super helpful as a non-Asian that loves the cheongsam dress and has been on the hunt for an authentic maker in China
This is exactly what I’ve been thinking...no culture is really safe from appropriation.
I loved that you also included practical suggestions, so people have no excuses.
And thank you for sharing the list of Asian brands!
Thank you for articulating my inner conflict around this “trend” so beautifully! I’d like to add YanYan Knits to the list of Asian designers
Such a good read! Thank you so much for sharing - and love the forward-looking commentary on how brands can do better.
A wonderful essay, very well written and extremely necessary. As someone from a culture that is constantly consumed by Americans and Europeans, I understand very well what you’re talking about. I truly hope people can learn from this.